Jeanette Feltus in Linden House, Natchez, Mississippi |
View from Veranda of Linden House |
“Howdy Do”,
Jeanette Feltus called out with a bright morning lilt, taking time out from
instructions to the gardener on the need for more moth balls to distract deer from
the shrubs. “How ya’ doin?” she asked in her bright yellow pants suit,
flowered jacket and large costume earrings.
She hadn’t slowed since we met the night before when she dealt out opinions
on food, drink and which plantations to visit in Natchez, Mississippi on a
limited schedule. Jeannette represents the sixth generation of the O’Connor
family living in Linden House and has been instrumental in its survival.
Grounds of Linden House in Natchez, Mississippi |
Natchez lies
on a bluff above the Mississippi River contributing to its reputation as a
healthy locale where almost all large 19th century cotton
plantations owners in Mississippi built majestic homes for their families. With the largest number of millionaires per
capita in the United States at the time, Natchez was the place to be in the
1800s. Surprisingly, it voted not to secede from the
Union. When the Blue Army arrived from
New Orleans, locals chose not to resist strongly, saving itself from the torched remains of
other cities. Today, the largest array
of pre-civil war antebellum homes in the South has found new life with tours
and bed and breakfast offerings, including our Linden House.
Breakfast
was served promptly at 8:30 a.m. Around
the extended dining room table were three Australian women, two Dutch men, an
English couple and a sweet young couple from nearby Ferriday, probably
celebrating a wedding anniversary. I
was surprised at the heavy foreign presence, especially in a small town losing
population and off the beaten path. One
Australian woman confided they were fascinated by Southern traditions and BBQ and
thought its people like our innkeeper were charmingly different.
Jeanette Feltus giving tour of Linden House |
After breakfast,
Jeanette gave a free tour of the house built in 1790 and owned by the O’Connor
family since 1829. According to family
lore, the first Mrs. O’Connor faced down Union soldiers, threatening to destroy
her furniture before giving it over.
Jeanette’s husband, Rufus Feltus, was really the descendant and after
buying out four other heirs, the couple restored the home and added air
conditioning. The exterior was just as one would imagine
for a southern plantation. It was the
model for Percy Faith’s album cover featuring Tara’s theme song from Gone With The
Wind (minus the cobwebs, Jeanette added).
High bed in Dick's Room |
Inside the
house, Mrs. Feltus had a running commentary on each item. An old coffee maker that works like a still –
“I wouldn’t know”. Painting of an ancestor
– “Beautiful painting but ugly subject.”
Genealogy book that traces family back to Alfred the Great – “So they
say. I don’t know.” There were beautiful oil portraits of her
daughters as young women and of her husband but none of her. Unhappy with the results of her own likeness,
she relegated the painting to a closet. Some rooms had special histories. Ours was Dick’s Room, named after her
father-in-law who was born in that space and stayed there always when visiting.
Veranda at Linden House, Natchez, Mississippi |
Ahead of her
time, Jeanette had wanted to be a lawyer but agreed to try teaching history in
Natchez first. Her husband’s family
owned successful hardware stores in several states. Based on that introduction, Jeanette was
welcomed into Natchez society. But she
was no idle Southern Belle. Her home was
the center of their children’s social life including ping pong on the veranda. She participated in the active Garden Club
that started the preservation of homes in Natchez. And she helped organize the Annual Antique
Forum now in its 38th year and was quick to point out this is not an
antique fair. Speakers from across the
country lecture on sophisticated subjects.
In 2015, participants will investigate the relationship between the American South and
the cultural phenomenon of the European Grand Tour.
Mrs. Feltus
candidly admitted concern for the future of the home. Her daughters were on the “dark side of 50” with
no descendants. Maybe a cousin would
step in. Maybe a foundation could be
formed. This is not an isolated problem
for Natchez plantation owners. With the
cost of maintenance and upkeep so high, only six bed and breakfast homes still
remain in “the family”. But I have no doubt Jeanette Feltus will find
a solution. She has the grit of Scarlett
O’Hara and the humor of Dolly Parton – a charming combination that guarantees
success. Natchez’ inventory of plantations
will need more people like her to survive.
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